In the green around the home: attaching hanging planters

19. September 2019

The temperature sinks in autumn; the days are shorter and umbrellas take up a regular spot in your bag. Time to bring nature indoors. But who would willingly give up floor space or dodge around plant pots? Hanging planters are the solution for anyone with a green thumb. A secure installation is crucial to ensuring that everything stays upright and the plant doesn’t end up on the floor.

It may be grey outside, but the plants are in bloom indoors – house plants are good for your wellbeing. Putting plants into hanging planters is recommended for practical and aesthetic purposes. Vertical gardens are on trend as they leave open space on window sills and floors and make rooms appear bigger and airier. Windows can also be opened and closed without being obstructed. Hanging herb gardens are within easy reach while cooking without taking up space in the kitchen. Balconies, loggias and terraces are also nicely accentuated by hanging plants. Floating flowers, vegetables or other greenery also keep floors and window sills free.

The right location for a hanging planter

The right temperature and light conditions are important when selecting a plant, as is the right location and direction of sunlight. When placed indoors, hanging planters should be positioned as close as possible to the window and not too high up to ensure they get enough light. While inhabitants may have gained additional space by suspending their plants, they should ensure that the floor is not damaged as a result. A carpet won’t take well to water dripping from plant pots, for instance.

Resilient floor surfaces such as tiles or vinyl are better suited to the task. A saucer will collect any excess water and is practical for repotting purposes.

Installing the hanging planter

DIYers should choose a suitable fixing when installing a miniature herb garden or jungle. A couple of questions should be taken into consideration: How heavy is the hanging planter? What are its dimensions? These factors determine the load which the fixing will be subjected to. A plastic pot will weigh less than a ceramic one, for instance. The plant, earth and water can also add to the weight, however. If the pot protrudes far away from the wall fixing then it will be subjected to additional loads.

The substance of the wall or ceiling is another crucial factor. Anchoring subsurfaces made of concrete, masonry and wooden beams provide secure load-bearing capacity. Things get a bit more complicated with materials such as plasterboard, for example with suspended ceilings made of this type of drywall installation.

It comes down to the subsurface

Pots often have chains or ropes around the edge with which they can be suspended. As an alternative they can also be placed in nets or baskets. The top end should have a hook or ring from which the hanging planter can be hung from the ceiling or wall. The important thing is to use an anchor which reliably transfer the loads into the anchoring subsurface. The fischer DUOTEC is a safe choice for plasterboard materials, for example. Its flexible screw mount is suitable for hooks with different types of thread. The nylon toggle anchor absorbs relatively high loads in panel building materials. Depending on the selected anchor size, simply create a hole with a conventional 10 or 12-millimetre drill and preinsert the anchor using the flush sleeve with its snap function.

This correctly positions the toggle element behind the board, allowing the hook to be screwed in. fischer’s FI G scaffold eyebolt is recommended for concrete and masonry and features an eyebolt on one end. The eyebolt is positioned within the construction material using the corresponding internal threaded anchor and injection mortar. A perforated sleeve ensures the mortar is evenly distributed in perforated brick. Eyelet bolts such as fischer’s GS variant can also be used in wood without any additional anchors – simply predrill a hole that corresponds to the diameter of the screw and screw in the eyebolt. Ring nuts are an additional solution for concrete as well as solid and perforated brick, such as fischer’s RI, which can be screwed onto many different steel anchors or threaded rods thanks to their metric internal thread.

The bracket for the hanging planter can now be hung from the eyebolt, ring or mounting hook to safely affix plants in your own personal green oasis while saving space.

 

fischer DUOTEC

Easy to install nylon toggle for high loads in all panel building materials.

Go to fischer DUOTEC

fischer Blog

In the green around the home: attaching hanging planters

The temperature sinks in autumn; the days are shorter and umbrellas take up a regular spot in your bag. Time to bring nature indoors. But who would willingly give up floor space or dodge around plant pots? Hanging planters are the solution for anyone with a green thumb. A secure installation is crucial to ensuring that everything stays upright and the plant doesn’t end up on the floor.

It may be grey outside, but the plants are in bloom indoors – house plants are good for your wellbeing. Putting plants into hanging planters is recommended for practical and aesthetic purposes. Vertical gardens are on trend as they leave open space on window sills and floors and make rooms appear bigger and airier. Windows can also be opened and closed without being obstructed. Hanging herb gardens are within easy reach while cooking without taking up space in the kitchen. Balconies, loggias and terraces are also nicely accentuated by hanging plants. Floating flowers, vegetables or other greenery also keep floors and window sills free.

The right location for a hanging planter

The right temperature and light conditions are important when selecting a plant, as is the right location and direction of sunlight. When placed indoors, hanging planters should be positioned as close as possible to the window and not too high up to ensure they get enough light. While inhabitants may have gained additional space by suspending their plants, they should ensure that the floor is not damaged as a result. A carpet won’t take well to water dripping from plant pots, for instance.

Resilient floor surfaces such as tiles or vinyl are better suited to the task. A saucer will collect any excess water and is practical for repotting purposes.

Installing the hanging planter

DIYers should choose a suitable fixing when installing a miniature herb garden or jungle. A couple of questions should be taken into consideration: How heavy is the hanging planter? What are its dimensions? These factors determine the load which the fixing will be subjected to. A plastic pot will weigh less than a ceramic one, for instance. The plant, earth and water can also add to the weight, however. If the pot protrudes far away from the wall fixing then it will be subjected to additional loads.

The substance of the wall or ceiling is another crucial factor. Anchoring subsurfaces made of concrete, masonry and wooden beams provide secure load-bearing capacity. Things get a bit more complicated with materials such as plasterboard, for example with suspended ceilings made of this type of drywall installation.

It comes down to the subsurface

Pots often have chains or ropes around the edge with which they can be suspended. As an alternative they can also be placed in nets or baskets. The top end should have a hook or ring from which the hanging planter can be hung from the ceiling or wall. The important thing is to use an anchor which reliably transfer the loads into the anchoring subsurface. The fischer DUOTEC is a safe choice for plasterboard materials, for example. Its flexible screw mount is suitable for hooks with different types of thread. The nylon toggle anchor absorbs relatively high loads in panel building materials. Depending on the selected anchor size, simply create a hole with a conventional 10 or 12-millimetre drill and preinsert the anchor using the flush sleeve with its snap function.

This correctly positions the toggle element behind the board, allowing the hook to be screwed in. fischer’s FI G scaffold eyebolt is recommended for concrete and masonry and features an eyebolt on one end. The eyebolt is positioned within the construction material using the corresponding internal threaded anchor and injection mortar. A perforated sleeve ensures the mortar is evenly distributed in perforated brick. Eyelet bolts such as fischer’s GS variant can also be used in wood without any additional anchors – simply predrill a hole that corresponds to the diameter of the screw and screw in the eyebolt. Ring nuts are an additional solution for concrete as well as solid and perforated brick, such as fischer’s RI, which can be screwed onto many different steel anchors or threaded rods thanks to their metric internal thread.

The bracket for the hanging planter can now be hung from the eyebolt, ring or mounting hook to safely affix plants in your own personal green oasis while saving space.